A few questions to Luca Gualdana, enologist and director of Cantina il Poggio: a look on harvest 2022 that just ended, to the barrels where wines are now fermenting and to what will be the results of this much debated season.
Word to the enologist
“2022 has been a tough year talking about the climate, with conditions that have put to the test cultivated land and not only, with water shortages and drought.
Based on this type of “climate emergency”, from the harvest 2022 we should have expected a drop in the production. In fact, increasing temperatures and siccity are the cause of burned fruits and stress in the fields.
In fact, this year production has decreased, although not significantly, compared to previous years. Luckily, in August there were some rains that, although light and not frequent as hoped, helped to revitalize the plants and fruits.
One of the worst threats that were faced was the water stress to which the vines were subjected. Fortunately, unlike other producers, we did not have to resort to artificial irrigation. And I say fortunately because, using artificial irrigation, could cause delays in ripening or swelling in the fruits, which would therefore lead to less aromaticity and intensity in the final product. Obviously it is not a prohibited practice, it is in fact allowed in cases of necessity to resort to an emergency artificial irrigation.”
Harvest 2022 – Cantina il Poggio
“Here in Cantina il Poggio we were also lucky in terms of yield, so the production of wine has respected (if not exceeded) our expectations. And that was a good thing, because, as I said before, production has fallen because of this sudden climate change. It also happened that in hot years, though not like this, the yield dropped. It is very important to take care of the vineyard in the most appropriate way.”
What about wines ?
“From a more organoleptic point of view, we can say that the temperatures and the climate of this vintage see the production of still and structured wines, wines with a strong aroma, greater body and intensity, more suited to aging and aging. This increase in intensity and body will affect not only red wines, but also white and semi-sparkling wines. In fact, I expect a great result from the current vintage of our Gelasio, a white wine made from 100% Malvasia Aromatica di Candia grapes, a typical grape of our Parma territory. It is a wine that already has a remarkable aromatic quality and an interesting body. Qualities usually expected in a red wine. We imagine all this emphasized by the consequences of the climatic conditions of this vintage.”
A look to the future
“If we think about the time it will take for this climate emergency to subside, we cannot exclude a major change in terms of cultivated types. Assuming you start taking this seriously by the right people. What I see in the future of our production (and not only of ours) is an increasingly marked tendency to the production of structured and full bodied wines. The’ll be very aromatic, almost pungent and not excessively soft. Given the current climate, let’s consider: if viticulture was born in a period like this, it would be difficult to think of a productive development marked by sparkling and light wines. Not even here in Emilia, where they are an integral part of the culture of people”
We are waiting for you in the Cellar for our cultural tastings, starting from February 2023!