The History of Wine in Parma

The History of Wine in Parma

Foto di una tavola, con un calice di vino rosso, salumi, formaggi, giardiniera e bruschette calde con l'olio della Tenuta Il Poggiolo, Località Cangelasio di Salsomaggiore Terme - Cantina Il Poggio

 

Parma is renowned as The City of Gastronomy

With iconic products like Prosciutto di Parma and Parmigiano Reggiano leading the way, the city is home to numerous food companies—such as Barilla, Mutti, Parmalat, and Smeg—that make it one of the most competitive hubs in the world for the food industry. It’s no surprise that the CIBUS food fair is held in Parma.

But what about wine?

 

While Parma is a leader in Italian gastronomy, its wine industry doesn’t enjoy the same level of recognition. Wine enthusiasts may know Parma for its Lambrusco Maestri and Malvasia, light and easy-drinking wines, with the former being more popular abroad than locally.

Unfortunately, in many of Parma’s own restaurants, you’ll often find famous national labels like Chianti Classico, Amarone Valpolicella, and Barolo DOCG on the wine lists, rather than local wines. This approach reflects the lack of emphasis on promoting Parma’s wines, which in turn influences both locals and tourists to opt for these well-known names instead of exploring the local offerings.

Yet, Parma is home to a number of wineries.

Among them are Monte delle Vigne, the most famous;

Amadei Vini

La Cantina del Borgo in Torrechiara

Ceci, primarily focused on export

Canistracci

Oinoe La città del vino

Lamoretti

Cerdelli

Camillo Donati

Dall’Asta 1910

Palazzo

Carra di Casatico

Crocizia

La Bandina

Antonio Aldini

and, of course, Cantina Il Poggio. The history of wine in Parma certainly didn’t begin with the Lambrusco of the 1960s.

In this article, I want to take you on a journey through the history of wine in Parma and its evolution over the centuries.

But first, let me introduce myself.

I’m Alessandra, wine hospitality manager at Cantina Il Poggio. I’m part of the marketing and communication team and in this blog, aside from discussing wine, I also offer ideas, tips, and useful advice for exploring the cultural and gastronomic attractions of our region.

Through this content, I aim to promote this small corner of Emilia, targeting wine enthusiasts who are looking to break away from the usual and try something different from the classic and prestigious Italian labels, judging the wine for what it is, rather than where it comes from or its brand.

So, if you’re wondering whether there really is a wine culture in Parma, keep reading, and I’ll prove it to you.

A Look Back in Time

In Piazza Duomo, in Parma, there is the Baptistery, one of the city’s most iconic buildings, where inside you can find the “anthemic months” frescoes, which depict and document the main agricultural activities of medieval peasants, including scenes of vine pruning, barrels, and joyful moments during the grape harvest.

During the Renaissance, we find the manuscript “De partibus aedium” in which the author Francesco Maria Grapaldo mentions the grapes planted in the hills of Parma, highlighting Malvasia, Trebbiano, and Vernaccia. In that passage, he described his idea of the perfect home, which, in his view, certainly had to include a vineyard. In the city and surrounding area, such as Torrechiara Castle, we can also find paintings and depictions of grapevine pergolas.

During the rule of the Farnese family, Parma’s wine was always present at court, served at royal banquets, and during excursions on the Po River.
In the Bourbon era, Prime Minister Du Tillot promoted improvements in grape cultivation and vineyard planting methods, introducing more advanced techniques from France. However, the most significant written evidence we have of Parma’s viticulture is the “Trattato delle viti e sua coltivazione” (“Treatise on Vines and Their Cultivation”), which dates back to the 16th century and can be found in the Parma State Archives.

 

The Pioneers of Parma’s Wine

From the 1800s onward, wine in Parma experienced a golden age, thanks to French influences, which led to the planting of vineyards in areas like Felino, Sala Baganza, and Ozzano Taro. But it was the monks/enologists like Don Ghironi in Sala Baganza who made a difference, helping Parma’s wine win international awards in London and Paris.
A key figure in those years who contributed to the success of wine in Parma, and whose impact is still felt today, was Dr. Luigi Maestri. He selected the Lambrusco variety best suited to the province’s soils.

When Garibaldi Passed Through

There’s an anecdote often shared in local bars by the older generations. It’s said that when Giuseppe Garibaldi passed through Parma in April 1861, he stayed at the villa of the Marchioness Teresa Araldi-Trecchi in Maiatico. “There is no more delightful aroma, no more enticing nectar than the Malvasia of Maiatico,” Garibaldi wrote. He was so enchanted by this wine that he decided to take some vines back to his residence on the island of Caprera. Letters have been found in which Garibaldi informed the Marchioness that the vines were thriving and “immune to any disease.”

Giuseppe Verdi, a Classic of the Lower Parma Area

The great composer Giuseppe Verdi couldn’t resist producing his own wine. He was meticulous, demanding that his steward never lose sight of his grapes. Verdi insisted that the wine he drank should come from the first pressing (the “most fiore”), he considered the noblest and most refined. It is believed that the grape he used was Fortanina, now known as Fortana, which is still grown in the “bassa” region and can be found on the wine lists of restaurants like Antica Corte Pallavicina.

 

Phylloxera, the Parasite That Devastated European and Parmese Viticulture

Up until a certain point in history, Parma’s wine enjoyed an excellent reputation, thanks in part to strong ambassadors like Giuseppe Garibaldi, Maestro Verdi, and Maria Luigia, Napoleon Bonaparte’s wife, who governed the Duchy of Parma for several years, transforming it into the rich and noble city we know today.
Unfortunately, in the mid-1800s, the spread of powdery mildew (a parasitic fungus) and phylloxera (an insect) began to devastate vineyards, with the latter being brought to Europe from America by sea. Phylloxera is silent and cunning, attacking vine roots, so at first, no one notices anything. Within 2-3 years, European viticulture was compromised, starting in France and Germany and spreading down the Italian peninsula to Parma.
The farmers who had based their livelihoods on grapevines, whether in the valleys or hills, watched helplessly as their vineyards were destroyed. This epidemic continued for many, many years. The only areas that were spared were those with extreme climates, such as mountains, volcanic soils, and sandy soils, where phylloxera couldn’t reach or complete its life cycle.
By then, the damage was done, and it took decades to find a possible solution. Ironically, the solution came from the very cause of the problem. The roots of American vines were stronger and more resistant to phylloxera attacks. As a result, influential figures like Antonio Bizzozzero taught and convinced farmers to graft European vines onto the roots of American ones, preserving the quality and value of the wine.

 

From Viticulture to Wheat

During the fascist period, Mussolini ordered the planting of wheat everywhere through the “battle for grain” campaign. Wheat was more profitable, growing well both in plains and hills, and was essential for nourishment. Grapevines were not. Consequently, following World War II and the economic boom, Parma’s wine-growing areas were transformed into fields of wheat, tomatoes, and pastures for the production of Prosciutto and Parmigiano Reggiano.

 

Today

However, a few farmers who still had hope in their hearts were convinced by Bizzozzero and grafted European vines onto American roots. Thanks to these dreamers, today Parma has the opportunity to revitalize its wine sector, supported by the Consorzio dei Vini dei Colli di Parma, founded in 1977, which works daily to promote the region, of which we are also a part.

 

 

Il Parmigianino, spumate extra-brut di Cantina Il Poggio - Salsomaggiore Terme (PR)